Alyssa Marie Groeneveld, a Dutch-Filipino designer based in London, has garnered attention for her innovative approach to fashion, particularly through her brand AMG. Her work intricately weaves elements of sportswear into abstract, deconstructed forms, challenging traditional perceptions of masculinity and the emotional expressions of football fans.

In a recent flow with Puma, Groeneveld further explores these themes, solidifying her belief that fashion transcends superficiality and serves as a profound medium of artistic expression.

Early Inspirations and Educational Journey

Groeneveld’s fascination with fashion was deeply rooted in her early experiences. Growing up in Rotterdam and Amsterdam, she was captivated by the distinctive styles of music icons such as Pharrell Williams, 2Pac, Eve, Missy Elliott, and Jennifer Lopez. Their penchant for oversized tracksuits and hoodies resonated with her, influencing her personal style and later, her design aesthetics. This admiration for streetwear and sportswear became a cornerstone of her creative vision. 

Pursuing her passion, Groeneveld studied Fashion Design at the Willem de Kooning Academy in Rotterdam. During her undergraduate years, she experimented with silhouettes and patterns, aiming to create unique volumes around the male form infused with sporty elements. Her commitment to sustainability led her to repurpose existing garments, sourcing materials from brands and platforms like eBay job lots. This approach not only emphasized environmental consciousness but also allowed her to develop a distinctive draping technique guided by intuition and faith. 

Her academic journey culminated at Central Saint Martins in London, where she pursued a Master’s in Menswear Design. It was here that Groeneveld honed her expertise in zero-pattern, 3D constructions, seamlessly blending sportswear with formal tailoring. Her collections began to reflect narratives centered on groups of men expressing emotions within specific environments, with a notable focus on football culture. 

Exploring Masculinity Through Design

A recurring theme in Groeneveld’s work is the exploration of masculinity, particularly within the context of football fandom. Her designs delve into the complex emotional spectrum displayed by male supporters during matches. Reflecting on her childhood experiences attending games with her father, she observed a range of emotions—from aggression to camaraderie—manifested in the stands. This insight inspired her to create garments that encapsulate these multifaceted expressions. 

In her collections, Groeneveld deconstructs traditional sportswear, transforming football jerseys and tracksuits into avant-garde pieces that challenge conventional male attire. By intertwining elements of formalwear, such as suit jackets reimagined as skirts or sharp collars adorning athletic tees, she blurs the lines between traditionally masculine and feminine styles. This fusion not only questions societal norms but also encourages a broader dialogue on gender expression within fashion. 

The Puma Flow: A Mix of Art and Athletics

Groeneveld’s collab with Puma marks a significant milestone in her career, allowing her to merge her artistic vision with the brand’s athletic heritage. The partnership originated during her time at Central Saint Martins when she connected with Puma’s footwear designer, Jacob Alexander. Utilizing donated Puma football garments, she crafted a collection that reimagines traditional sportswear through her unique lens. 

The collection features deconstructed tracksuits twisted into intricate knots, symbolizing the constraints of performed masculinity. Puffer jackets and track tops are transformed into billowing gowns, representing freedom and fluidity. Jackets buckle into abstract forms, while panelled joggers, crafted from multiple pairs, evoke the collective identity of football fans. A standout piece—a football scarf fashioned into a crop top—challenges traditional notions of masculine attire. 

Discussing the collaboration, Groeneveld explains, “The inspiration was a recap of all previous collections, bringing everything full circle back to the first story of my brand: football. I’ve always built my collections around characters that exist in public space, exploring their emotions, their roles, and the atmosphere they contribute to.” 

Sustainability and Intuitive Design

Central to Groeneveld’s design philosophy is a commitment to sustainability. By repurposing secondhand sportswear and utilizing deadstock materials, she emphasizes the importance of environmental responsibility in fashion. Her zero-pattern, draping technique allows her to create garments guided by intuition, resulting in one-of-a-kind pieces that defy traditional manufacturing processes. 

She articulates her approach, stating, “I have a story that I want to tell, but how is that going to be visually presented in the garments as well?” This narrative-driven methodology ensures that each piece not only serves as attire but also as a medium for storytelling and emotional expression. 

Artistic Vision and Future Aspirations

Groeneveld perceives her work as transcending the superficial aspects of fashion, positioning it firmly within the realm of art. She asserts, “Fashion can be superficial. I see my work as art.” This perspective underscores her dedication to creating pieces that provoke thought, challenge norms, and evoke emotion.

Looking ahead, Groeneveld aims to expand her brand’s presence, particularly in Asia, with aspirations of establishing a foothold in the Philippines. Her focus remains on crafting collections that resonate on a deeper level, encouraging wearers to engage with the narratives woven into each design.

 

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