Few people achieve excellence in one field, let alone two. Alexander Smalls is an exception. A Grammy and Tony Award-winning opera singer turned award-winning chef, restaurateur, and culinary historian, Smalls has carved a path that is as inspiring as it is unconventional. His journey from the world’s great opera stages to redefining African American and African diaspora cuisine is a testament to his talent, vision, and relentless pursuit of cultural storytelling.
His voice once resonated in grand concert halls, but today, it echoes through kitchens, restaurants, and books that celebrate the deep and complex culinary history of the African diaspora.
The Opera Star: A Gifted Tenor on the World Stage
Born in Spartanburg, South Carolina, Smalls grew up in a household where music and food were both central to family life. His early exposure to opera set the stage for a remarkable career in classical music. He trained extensively and refined his craft, becoming an internationally recognized baritone with performances in major opera houses worldwide.
Smalls’ career as an opera singer peaked when he was part of the ensemble that won a Grammy Award and a Tony Award for George Gershwin’s Porgy and Bess. His powerful voice, stage presence, and ability to bring characters to life solidified his place in the world of classical music.
But even as he traveled and performed at the highest level, another passion simmered in the background—one that had been ingrained in him since childhood: food.
A Culinary Awakening: From Music to the Kitchen
After years in opera, Smalls made an audacious decision: to leave the stage behind and pursue a career in the culinary world. Unlike music, where he had formal training, cooking was something he learned through experience, passion, and a deep cultural connection to food.
Smalls saw food as another form of storytelling—one that could preserve history, honor heritage, and bring people together. He immersed himself in the culinary arts, traveling, researching, and perfecting recipes that would later define his career.
Creating a Culinary Legacy
Smalls was not content with simply being a chef; he wanted to reshape how the world viewed African American and African diaspora cuisine. In the 1990s, he opened his first restaurant, Café Beulah, in New York City. The establishment was groundbreaking—it brought refined Southern cuisine to a fine dining setting at a time when such a concept was rare.
He followed this success with other acclaimed restaurants, including:
•The Cecil – America’s first Afro-Asian American restaurant, which won critical acclaim for its fusion of global flavors.
•Minton’s – A revival of the historic Harlem jazz club, where Smalls paired world-class music with an equally impressive menu.
Through his restaurants, Smalls not only introduced people to elevated interpretations of Southern and African diaspora cuisine but also emphasized the historical significance of these culinary traditions.
The Cultural Historian and Author
Beyond cooking, Smalls has taken on the role of a culinary historian, dedicated to preserving and sharing the food traditions of the African diaspora. He has authored multiple books that delve deep into the history, culture, and flavors that define Black cuisine worldwide.
His books include:
•“Between Harlem and Heaven” – A James Beard Award-winning cookbook that explores the intersections of African, Asian, and American Southern cuisine.
•“Meals, Music, and Muses” – A beautifully written culinary memoir that intertwines his love for music and food.
Through his writing, Smalls educates and inspires a new generation of chefs and home cooks, ensuring that the contributions of African American and African diaspora cuisine are recognized and celebrated.
Championing Black Culinary Heritage
Smalls has played a crucial role in elevating African American cuisine, breaking the stereotypes that once confined it to soul food restaurants and home kitchens. By bringing it into the fine dining space, he has demonstrated that these flavors and techniques deserve the same recognition as French, Italian, or Japanese cuisine.
Mentoring the Next Generation
As a mentor, Smalls has paved the way for many up-and-coming Black chefs. His influence can be seen in the increasing representation of African diaspora cuisine in the culinary world, with more chefs embracing and expanding on the traditions he helped spotlight.
A True Renaissance Man
Whether on stage or in the kitchen, Smalls has lived a life dedicated to art, culture, and storytelling. His ability to transition from opera to cuisine, while excelling in both, is nothing short of extraordinary. He remains an icon—one who has not only entertained but also educated and empowered through his music, his food, and his words.
Impression
Alexander Smalls’ story is one of bold reinvention, artistic mastery, and cultural preservation. His voice may no longer fill opera houses, but it still resonates—this time, through flavors, cookbooks, and a culinary movement that continues to grow.
In both music and food, he has left an indelible mark, proving that passion, talent, and a deep connection to heritage can transcend any single career path. Alexander Smalls is, and always will be, a true trailblazer.
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