A 15th collaboration that bridges 1980s heritage and modern Japanese sensibility

The powerhouse collaboration between BEAMS, Japan’s legendary retailer and style compass, and Polo Ralph Lauren, the American house synonymous with aspirational classicism, returns for its fifteenth chapter. Scheduled to release on October 24, 2025, exclusively in Japan, this latest installment revives a symbol buried deep in Ralph Lauren’s archives—the Polo Golf crest of the late 1980s.

In an era when logos have reclaimed narrative weight and vintage aesthetics shape modern wardrobes, the return of this emblem feels particularly timely. BEAMS, known for its curatorial precision, has chosen not to merely reissue the past but to reframe it through a contemporary lens. The result is a capsule that compresses decades of fashion dialogue—between American sportswear and Japanese craftsmanship, between nostalgia and forward motion—into a few disciplined silhouettes: classic-fit sweatshirts, caps, and matching socks, each bearing the revived crest like a cultural insignia.

the 15th chapter

BEAMS and Ralph Lauren have nurtured a relationship that reads less like a series of collaborations and more like a sustained conversation between two institutions. Since their first partnership in the 2010s, each capsule has carried an almost scholarly attention to detail. BEAMS’ role as a stylistic translator—absorbing Western heritage and repackaging it for the Japanese market—has made them one of Ralph Lauren’s most trusted cultural counterparts.

This fifteenth project continues that rhythm but takes a more focused route. Rather than sprawling collections or reinterpretations of multiple motifs, BEAMS zeroes in on a single historic mark: the Polo Golf crest, once stitched onto sweaters, cardigans, and caps during the brand’s late-’80s sporting heyday. The original emblem depicted crossed clubs, laurels, and a banner script—iconography that symbolized leisure as luxury and golf as both sport and lifestyle.

Today, BEAMS reintroduces that crest with an almost museum-grade reverence. Yet it’s not a museum piece. The design’s restraint—centered embroidery, structured cotton bases, and subtle color choices—brings the symbol into contemporary circulation.

pride

The heart of the capsule lies in its classic-fit sweatshirts, built in Andover Heather, Newport Navy, and Black Watch tartan. Each piece features a bold, embroidered crest across the chest—a direct homage to the Polo Golf era of the late ’80s. The tactile weight of the cotton, the minimal ribbing at the neck, and the slightly roomy silhouette all echo the proportions of archival collegiate sweatshirts, though refined to BEAMS’ exact specifications.

The caps, offered in Cafe Tan, Newport Navy, and Black Watch, complete the story. The front carries the same Polo Golf crest, while the back is signed discreetly with BEAMS embroidery above the strap—a quiet acknowledgment of authorship. The socks, available in navy and white combinations with miniature polo-player motifs, extend the narrative into smaller gestures of coordination.

There’s an equilibrium here that defines the best of Japanese reinterpretation: minimal interference, maximum consideration. The collection does not try to reinvent the wheel—it polishes it until it glows with intent.

the meaning

In the crowded space of fashion nostalgia, not all revivals are created equal. The Polo Golf crest is more than a decorative logo; it encapsulates a particular moment in Ralph Lauren’s evolution. By the late 1980s, Ralph Lauren had already conquered the American imagination with his cinematic vision of wealth and heritage. The introduction of Polo Golf extended that dream to the greens and fairways, merging performance and polish.

The crest represented an ideal of leisure—one informed by British sporting codes but distinctly American in its optimism. To revive it now, in 2025, is to recontextualize that optimism for a generation that values authenticity and craftsmanship over status display. BEAMS understood this instinctively. The collection is not about golf; it’s about what golf once symbolized: balance, tradition, and understated confidence.

prep

What makes this partnership resonate year after year is the way BEAMS operates as an interpreter. The brand has long mastered the art of editing Western references into shapes that appeal to Japanese sensibilities. It’s less about imitation and more about modulation—shortening sleeves, softening collars, adjusting the hue of navy, tweaking proportions to suggest subtlety rather than dominance.

With this drop, BEAMS does what it does best: it takes an American emblem and integrates it into Japan’s language of detail. The embroidery sits slightly closer to the body line, the fit bridges between street casual and tailored restraint, and the choice of Black Watch tartan—a pattern deeply rooted in British tradition—anchors the transatlantic dialogue.

This calibrated restraint is the quiet genius of BEAMS’ creative direction. Every adjustment speaks to an awareness of lifestyle rather than mere style. You don’t wear these pieces to shout allegiance; you wear them to signal discernment.

material

Each garment in the collection is made from heavyweight cotton, the kind that retains structure while aging gracefully. The tactile experience—a balance of softness and density—recalls the golden era of American sportswear manufacturing. BEAMS and Ralph Lauren have both committed to maintaining that authenticity through careful fabric sourcing.

The tonal palette reinforces the capsule’s dual heritage. Andover Heather, a mid-grey tone, channels Ivy League athleticism. Newport Navy embodies Ralph Lauren’s maritime lineage and enduring connection to the American East Coast. And Black Watch, a deep tartan of navy and green, invokes the elegance of Scottish tradition while adding subtle texture to the otherwise solid-color series.

Even the embroidery thread has been chosen to catch light in a way that mimics vintage satin stitch—a small but decisive detail that differentiates reproduction from revival.

culture

Fashion’s pendulum has swung decisively toward heritage. In an age of algorithmic trends and digital fashion fatigue, authenticity has become the rarest luxury. Consumers no longer chase newness; they chase continuity. Ralph Lauren and BEAMS, both institutions built on storytelling and consistency, understand that better than most.

The 2025 collection arrives at a cultural moment when logos are less about hierarchy and more about belonging. Vintage collectors have been rediscovering 1980s Polo Golf pieces for years, and the secondary market has elevated them to cult status. The reintroduction of the crest through an official channel, therefore, feels not only nostalgic but restorative—a bridge between original craftsmanship and modern interpretation.

By focusing on this specific emblem, the collaboration avoids trend fatigue. It doesn’t pander to streetwear hype cycles or chase high-fashion theatrics. Instead, it celebrates continuity—the kind of understated refinement that endures across decades.

sport, heritage, and street

Although inspired by a golf crest, this collection’s relevance stretches far beyond the fairway. In Japan, sport-inflected prep has long been reabsorbed into everyday style. The BEAMS × Polo aesthetic speaks as easily to streetwear fans as to traditionalists. When paired with denim, wide chinos, or tailored slacks, these pieces take on an air of quiet sophistication—a kind of luxury that moves through the city rather than the clubhouse.

There’s a cultural poetry in this transformation. In the 1980s, Polo Golf signified an ideal of affluence. In 2025, through BEAMS’ reinterpretation, it represents craft over capital. It’s the democratization of elegance, shaped by taste rather than title.

impression

BEAMS’ curatorial method has always leaned toward less is more. Every stitch in this capsule is deliberate. There is no over-branding, no ornamental nostalgia, no forced innovation. The restraint feels almost meditative, reflecting Japan’s long-standing appreciation for minimal form and functional beauty.

That ethos mirrors Ralph Lauren’s original vision. When Ralph Lauren founded his brand, he didn’t aim to make loud fashion; he wanted to build a wardrobe of dreams—pieces that could last a lifetime. BEAMS recognizes this continuity and translates it through its own cultural lens. The connection therefore becomes more than commerce; it’s an act of preservation.

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