Redefining American Sportswear

Brandon Maxwell has long been known as a designer of high glamour, creating some of the most striking red-carpet moments in recent memory. His sculptural gowns, meticulous tailoring, and close association with Lady Gaga’s most iconic fashion moments cemented his reputation as a master of eveningwear. However, in recent years, Maxwell has been shifting his focus toward something more grounded, more wearable—a redefinition of modern American sportswear.

As Calvin Klein makes its long-awaited return to New York Fashion Week, the conversation around American fashion’s identity is being reignited. Maxwell’s latest collection embraces the polish and sophistication of the 1980s, a time before the rise of athleisure and ultra-casual dressing. His reinterpretation of sportswear blends effortless luxury with structure, proving that comfort doesn’t have to come at the expense of refinement.

Brandon Maxwell: A Stylist-Turned-Designer’s Journey

Before launching his brand in 2015, Brandon Maxwell was a well-respected stylist, best known for his work as Lady Gaga’s fashion director. His years in styling gave him an intimate understanding of fit, fabric, and the emotional power of clothing, which translated seamlessly into his own designs.

• Early Success: Maxwell’s debut collections were sleek, structured, and deeply rooted in classic glamour. His pieces were worn by celebrities like Michelle Obama, Meghan Markle, and Blake Lively, making him a red-carpet favorite.

• Precision Tailoring: Even in his most dramatic gowns, Maxwell’s skill in sculpting fabric to the body set him apart from his contemporaries.

• American Craftsmanship: Unlike many designers chasing overseas production, Maxwell has always emphasized American manufacturing and craftsmanship.

But as fashion trends shifted, so did Maxwell’s perspective. The pandemic fundamentally changed how people dressed, and the demand for extravagant eveningwear gave way to practicality, ease, and comfort. Maxwell recognized the need for evolution.

The Evolution: Designing for Real Life

In a post-pandemic fashion landscape, luxury isn’t just about exclusivity—it’s about versatility and wearability. Maxwell’s most recent collections reflect this shift, blending the elegance of his past work with an emphasis on everyday essentials.

His latest runway show featured timeless American sportswear staples, updated with his signature precision:

• Oversized Men’s Dress Shirts: Crisp, structured, yet effortlessly relaxed.

• Swingy Midi Skirts in Black Leather: A nod to 1980s power dressing, but softened for a modern audience.

• Tailored Coats with Power Shoulders: Classic silhouettes, reimagined with a polished ease.

• Draped Necklines & Luxurious Knits: Feminine yet practical, designed for real movement.

Maxwell himself summarized his new direction perfectly:

“I just want to be the sweater they pick up in the morning and a really good pant.”

To that end, he has partnered with knitwear specialist Ryan Roche, creating standout pieces like:

• Chunky Marled Polo-Neck Pullovers – Cozy yet sophisticated.

• Slinky Tube Dresses with Animal Spot Intarsias – The perfect mix of minimalism and texture.

His “really good pants” are another highlight, frequently paired with utility belts and flap pockets, bringing practicality and edge to the collection.

The Influence of 1980s American Fashion

Maxwell’s latest work draws heavily from the 1980s, an era when American sportswear still exuded polish and power.

Before athleisure and casual Fridays redefined how Americans dressed, there was an expectation of refinement—even in everyday wear. Maxwell’s collection revives this put-together aesthetic, channeling elements of designers like:

• Donna Karan – Known for her “Seven Easy Pieces”, which created effortless yet professional wardrobes for modern women.

• Calvin Klein (Classic Era) – Before minimalism took over, Klein was a master of structured, sensual tailoring.

• Ralph Lauren – The king of American lifestyle dressing, blending luxury with comfort.

Maxwell’s approach isn’t about nostalgia for the past, but rather redefining American sportswear for a new generation.

Balancing Luxury & Accessibility

Maxwell’s shift towards sportswear is not a departure from luxury—it’s an expansion of it. He is proving that wearability and elegance don’t have to be mutually exclusive.

By embracing sportswear staples with the same attention to fit and quality that defined his eveningwear, Maxwell is positioning himself among a new wave of designers bringing sophistication back to American fashion.

And with brands like Calvin Klein returning to New York Fashion Week, it’s clear that the era of refined American sportswear is making a comeback.

Maxwell’s ability to evolve while maintaining his brand’s identity is what will keep him at the forefront of this movement. His latest collection isn’t just about dressing fashion insiders—it’s about dressing real people, in real life, with real style.

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