COS made a striking return to the runway with a landmark presentation of its Spring/Summer 2025 collection in Athens. For its first-ever show in the Greek capital, the brand selected a dramatic and symbolic location: the Dionyssomarble Quarry, a site steeped in history and deeply connected to classical architecture. The same marble extracted from this quarry once formed the foundation of the Parthenon and Erechtheion—icons of Athenian heritage. This was more than a fashion show; it was a deliberate fusion of the ancient and the contemporary, a minimalist brand carving its message into the bedrock of European history.

The juxtaposition of modern silhouettes against a background shaped by thousands of years of craftsmanship created an experience that was both timely and timeless. As the sun set across the marble terrain, COS unveiled a collection rooted in its core design language—clean lines, neutral tones, precise tailoring—but elevated by fresh energy, architectural volume, and subtle nods to Mediterranean culture.

The Setting: Dionyssomarble Quarry

The venue itself became part of the narrative. Unlike a traditional runway, the Dionyssomarble Quarry offered a raw and imposing stage. Layered cliffs of ivory stone surrounded the models as they walked down a long stretch of polished marble runway. The location’s significance wasn’t lost on anyone. COS has always embraced structure, geometry, and material integrity. Hosting a show here made a bold statement: design is eternal when it respects form, material, and purpose.

The soundscape was sparse and atmospheric—an ambient blend of natural echoes and curated sounds that allowed the environment to speak. Lighting was subtle, shifting from daylight to dusk as the show progressed, casting long shadows across the stone and emphasizing the crisp geometry of the garments.

Guests were seated in a semi-circle carved into the marble itself, adding intimacy and immersion. Editors, stylists, and cultural figures sat shoulder to shoulder, a modern assembly within an ancient amphitheater of sorts. COS’s creative team clearly intended for the setting to be more than just beautiful—it was foundational to the message of the collection.

The Collection: Fluid Precision

The Spring/Summer 2025 collection marked an evolution for COS, one that stayed true to its ethos while introducing unexpected softness. The brand’s signature minimalism was still present—refined tailoring, quiet luxury, tonal color palettes—but there was movement this season, both literal and conceptual.

Tailoring was looser, silhouettes more fluid. Wide-leg trousers, soft trench coats, and relaxed double-breasted jackets flowed as models walked. Sheer layering pieces in muted sand and terracotta tones hinted at Mediterranean light and air. The classic white shirt was reimagined with oversized cuffs and split hems. Tank tops and knits hugged the body with structure but allowed ease of movement.

Drapery was key—a subtle reference to Grecian tradition, reinterpreted in a modern, utilitarian way. Dresses fell in clean vertical lines, some with asymmetrical hemlines and unexpected open backs. Outerwear included collarless jackets and linen-blend coats in neutral shades like chalk, bone, olive, and slate.

Fabrication stood out—a mix of organic cotton, technical blends, and raw silk. COS continues to lean into sustainability, and this season saw an increased focus on repurposed and responsibly sourced materials. The fabric choice wasn’t just about aesthetics but also about texture, movement, and light interaction.

For menswear, proportions were pushed further. Longline shirts, cropped jackets, and slouchy trousers gave the collection a contemporary edge without sacrificing timeless appeal. Soft tailoring took the lead, paired with light knits and clean sneakers or leather sandals.

Color Palette: Nature in Neutrals

COS’s palette this season echoed the environment it was shown in. Soft creams, dusty beiges, mineral greys, and deep earth tones dominated, offering harmony with the stone surroundings. Occasional injections of muted olive, steel blue, and charcoal provided contrast without disrupting the visual calm.

What stood out was how the garments became extensions of the environment. Under the setting sun, silk dresses shimmered like marble surfaces; structured cottons absorbed the golden hour light. It was clear the designers considered not just the look of the pieces but how they would live in the elements.

Accessories: Understated Intentions

As always with COS, accessories were deliberate and minimal. Structured leather tote bags in matte finishes, oversized sunglasses with architectural frames, and sculptural jewelry punctuated the looks. Flat sandals, slides, and simple low-profile sneakers completed the outfits—footwear designed for movement and ease.

Bags, in particular, caught attention. Crossbody satchels in monochrome palettes, large slouchy clutches, and bucket-style totes echoed the clean lines and muted tones of the garments. Each piece served a purpose and maintained COS’s commitment to functionality fused with elegance.

Casting and Choreography

Casting reflected a diverse and inclusive vision, with models of various backgrounds, ages, and identities. The show emphasized individual expression within a shared aesthetic. The runway walk was intentional—unhurried, graceful, confident. There was no spectacle for spectacle’s sake; this was about allowing each look to breathe and speak for itself.

In a world where runway shows often lean on theatrics, COS’s presentation was a meditation in clarity and purpose. The focus remained where it belonged: on design, material, and mood.

Creative Direction and Vision

The collection was the product of COS’s in-house design team, which has consistently pushed the boundaries of high-street fashion into elevated, design-led territory. With Spring/Summer 2025, they further reinforced COS’s identity as more than a retailer—it’s now firmly in the realm of quiet luxury.

This collection, and its Athens showcase, drew inspiration from both classical architecture and contemporary living. Columns and folds translated into seams and silhouettes. The raw beauty of ancient Greece served as both metaphor and muse.

The creative direction acknowledged the past but wasn’t trapped by nostalgia. It asked: how can timeless design serve the modern individual? The answer was evident in each look—simplicity, function, adaptability, beauty.

COS and Cultural Context

This wasn’t COS’s first time stepping outside the typical runway mold. In recent years, the brand has positioned itself as a thoughtful player in the broader cultural space—collaborating with artists, architects, and environmental organizations. The Athens show was a continuation of that ethos: fashion as dialogue, not monologue.

Greece, with its deep connection to aesthetics, balance, and philosophy, offered more than just a beautiful setting. It offered context—a way to ground modern design in the lineage of Western thought and craft.

And for a brand rooted in structure and elegance, COS’s decision to debut in a place where ideas of proportion and form were born was not just bold—it was poetic.

Sustainability and Future Thinking

COS continues to evolve its approach to sustainability. For Spring/Summer 2025, over 80% of the materials used were sourced from certified sustainable sources. Packaging is fully recyclable, and many garments are designed with longevity in mind—made to be worn and re-worn, not discarded with the next season.

The quarry itself, while historic, was still active. COS worked with local authorities to ensure minimal environmental disruption, and part of the event’s proceeds supported restoration efforts in the surrounding region.

The brand is also expanding its recycling program, encouraging customers to return worn items for repurposing. COS’s sustainability efforts don’t yet make it a zero-impact brand, but it’s clearly moving in the right direction—quietly, intentionally, like everything else it does.

Reception and Cultural Buzz

Initial reactions to the collection were overwhelmingly positive. Industry critics praised its restraint and refinement. Social media buzzed with images of the show’s stunning location, models flanked by stone walls and sky. Fashion editors lauded COS for once again proving that simplicity can be radical in a world of constant noise.

For longtime fans of the brand, it was a reaffirmation of what COS does best: wearable art that transcends trend. For newcomers, the show served as a powerful invitation into a world where detail, intention, and timelessness are king.

A Monument to Modern Design

With its Spring/Summer 2025 show, COS didn’t just present a collection—it offered a vision. One grounded in history, framed by architecture, softened by movement, and lit by the Mediterranean sun.

In Athens, surrounded by marble that had seen empires rise and fall, COS carved its message: minimalism isn’t a lack of design—it’s a mastery of it. Every look on the runway was a reflection of that philosophy. Nothing was excessive. Nothing was out of place. And in that restraint, COS found its strength.

This was a brand speaking not just to the season ahead, but to the decades that follow. In a world of fast everything, COS reminded us that the future belongs to those who build with intention.

 

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