DRIFT

Bonjour to the Boat Shoe

Simon Porte Jacquemus has done it again. This time, the French designer has cast his minimalist, sun-drenched gaze on an unexpected American classic: Timberland’s 3-Eye Lug. Known casually as the Timbs boat shoe, it’s a utilitarian staple long associated with dock workers, streetwear aficionados, and preppy East Coast wardrobes. But in Jacquemus’ hands, it becomes La Bateau — “the boat” — a poetic reworking that feels equally at home in Marseille or Montauk.

Jacquemus’ new take on Timberland’s chunky lace-up silhouette is not just a redesign. It’s a re-contextualization, offering luxury charm without stripping the original of its working-class grit.

A Cult Shoe, Reborn

For years, the 3-Eye Lug has floated beneath the sneaker-sphere’s radar, overshadowed by Timberland’s more famous 6-inch boot. But for those in the know — including Simon Porte Jacquemus himself — the boat shoe variant was always a low-key style grail. The thick, ridged sole, three-eye lacing system, and beefy leather construction made it a sturdy, stylish choice for off-duty creatives and streetwear veterans alike.

Jacquemus, who has often been photographed in the 3-Eye Lug, now brings the shoe to the surface with his signature blend of absurd elegance and rustic functionality.

The Details: La Bateau Breakdown

The La Bateau doesn’t shout. It smolders.

Offered in a palette of neutral tones — cream, navy, camel, and black — Jacquemus’ rework pares back the shoe’s visual noise while amplifying its shape. It features:

  • A slightly squared toe box, replacing the classic rounded form with subtle geometric refinement
  • A tonal stitched leather upper, preserving the hand-sewn moc-toe construction but updating it with sleeker proportions
  • Oversized paracord-style laces threaded through exaggerated D-rings
  • The classic Timberland lug sole, now rendered in semi-translucent rubber or matte brown, with Jacquemus’ co-branding heat-stamped at the heel

There’s an artful tension between utility and sensuality. It’s still a boat shoe. But now, it’s ready for a runway docked on the Côte d’Azur.

Fashion’s Ongoing Love Affair with Timberland

Jacquemus’ La Bateau isn’t the first designer foray into Timberland territory. From Supreme’s 6-inch boot collabs to A-COLD-WALL’s recent technical interpretations*, Timberland’s rugged silhouettes have become increasingly fashion-forward in recent years.

But what sets Jacquemus apart is his ability to infuse the shoe with emotive minimalism. Where others chase futurism or subversion, Jacquemus leans into nostalgia. His Timberland isn’t ironic. It’s intimate.

This mirrors his broader brand ethos — a romantic, often humorous take on Southern French life, filtered through modern tailoring and sensual shapes. Turning the Timbs boat shoe into La Bateau is not just a linguistic tweak. It’s a repositioning of Americana within a French dreamscape.

Why It Works

At first glance, the Jacquemus x Timberland pairing might feel odd. But dig deeper and the synergy becomes clear. Both brands share a commitment to craftsmanship, to durability, and to strong, sculptural forms. Both emerged from regional, community-focused roots — Timberland in New Hampshire, Jacquemus in Provence — and have transcended their origins to become global symbols.

Moreover, the choice of the 3-Eye Lug — rather than Timberland’s ubiquitous wheat boot — feels smart. It allows Jacquemus to create something unexpected and slightly niche, speaking directly to fashion insiders and fans of utilitywear alike.

Styling La Bateau: How to Wear It

La Bateau is not a hard shoe to style. That’s the magic of Jacquemus — his products feel strange but wearable, odd but obvious.

Think

  • Cropped, flared trousers and a boxy shirt for an artsy Parisian vibe
  • Nylon cargos and a slim turtleneck for a coastal utilitarian fit
  • Or go full Jacquemus: an oversized blazer, sheer tank, and above-the-knee shorts — no socks

It’s unisex, understated, and quietly powerful. Perfect for spring days and fall layers alike.

Culture in a Shoe

With La Bateau, Jacquemus is once again playing with symbols. A boat shoe, historically worn by coastal elites, gets reissued as a symbol of sunburnt chic and egalitarian fashion. The choice to collaborate with Timberland — a brand rooted in blue-collar functionality — adds further dimension. It’s about elevating the mundane, reframing utility as art.

As with his tiny bags, curved sunglasses, and awkwardly sensual silhouettes, La Bateau continues the Jacquemus tradition of turning familiar forms into objects of intrigue.

A Limited Drop, But With Big Impact

While not formally branded as a limited edition, the Jacquemus x Timberland La Bateau is being released in select quantities, online via Jacquemus.com and at curated stockists like SSENSE, Dover Street Market, and Slam Jam. Early reports suggest the cream and camel colorways are already generating the most hype.

Retail pricing falls between €295 and €395, depending on the leather finish. That places it at the intersection of accessible luxury — affordable enough for collectors, elevated enough to sit beside Jacquemus’ runway footwear.

Impression

In reimagining Timberland’s boat shoe, Jacquemus hasn’t just designed a new product. He’s created a cultural shift, a fashion object that speaks to authenticity, heritage, and playfulness.

La Bateau proves that the French designer’s world-building genius doesn’t stop at handbags or dresses. It extends to the docks, the dirt, and the sidewalks where Timberlands have walked for decades.

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