While the watch industry has long embraced vintage-inspired designs, some horological innovations from the past remain buried under layers of history. Many styles from the 1960s and 70s have been revived, reinterpreted, and reissued, particularly in the world of dive watches. However, one complication that remains largely forgotten outside of high-end watchmaking is the double-retrograde display—an ingenious mechanism that offers a unique and captivating way to tell time.

Enter Xeric, a brand known for pushing the boundaries of independent watch design while drawing inspiration from the past. With their new Timeline Retrograde Automatic, Xeric is bringing back this fascinating complication, giving it a modern twist while staying true to its retro roots. This release is not just a watch—it’s a statement, a celebration of a timekeeping mechanism that deserves a second life.

• The history and significance of the double-retrograde complication

• How Xeric’s design philosophy embraces the past while innovating for the future

• The key features and movement behind the Timeline Retrograde Automatic

• Why this watch is an essential piece for collectors and enthusiasts alike

Let’s wind back the hands of time and rediscover what makes this forgotten complication so special.

What is a Retrograde Complication?

In traditional watches, time is typically displayed using hands that rotate continuously around the dial. However, in a retrograde complication, the hand travels along an arc and then snaps back to the beginning once it reaches the end.

A double-retrograde complication takes this a step further by applying the mechanism to two different functions, often for hours and minutes. This results in a mesmerizing display of time, where both hands follow a trajectory reminiscent of a vintage gauge or meter before resetting in an instant.

Origins and Evolution

The retrograde complication dates back to the 18th century, when high-end watchmakers such as Breguet experimented with alternative ways of displaying time. However, it wasn’t until the late 1960s and early 70s that the double-retrograde layout found its way into a select few avant-garde timepieces.

These watches, often produced in low quantities, were mechanical marvels ahead of their time. While the Swiss luxury watch industry has continued to produce retrograde displays in high-end models, the complication largely faded from mainstream watchmaking, overshadowed by more conventional dial layouts.

Now, Xeric is resurrecting this forgotten design, making it accessible to a new generation of watch enthusiasts who crave something beyond the ordinary.

Xeric’s Vision: Merging Vintage Charm with Modern Innovation

A Brand That Defies Convention

Xeric is no stranger to unconventional watchmaking. Founded with the goal of redefining how we experience time, the brand is known for its creative complications, unique case shapes, and bold aesthetics.

The Timeline Retrograde Automatic continues this tradition by blending mid-century inspiration with contemporary execution, making it a perfect fusion of old and new.

Design Philosophy: A Nod to the Past

• Retro Dashboard Aesthetic – The double-retrograde display immediately evokes classic speedometers, aviation gauges, and sci-fi dials from the 1960s and 70s.

• Art Deco Influence – The dial’s symmetry and layout reflect Art Deco-era instruments, offering both functionality and artistic elegance.

• Bold Yet Wearable Case Design – While inspired by the past, the case proportions are refined for modern wear, ensuring that the watch doesn’t feel like a mere relic of history.

With the Timeline Retrograde Automatic, Xeric isn’t just reviving a lost complication—it’s giving it a stylistic refresh that makes it relevant and exciting in 2025.

The Double-Retrograde Time Display

At the heart of the watch is its double-retrograde complication, which provides a visually dynamic and intuitive way to read time.

• Hours are displayed on the upper arc, with the hand sweeping from left to right before snapping back.

• Minutes follow a similar path on the lower arc, resetting in an instant at the 60-minute mark.

• This unique display is not only functional but also engaging, ensuring that timekeeping is an experience rather than a routine task.

Automatic Movement with Retrograde Function

Powering the watch is a high-quality automatic movement, specially modified to incorporate the double-retrograde complication. While specific details of the caliber are yet to be revealed, expect:

• Reliable, smooth operation with a power reserve suitable for everyday wear.

• A custom-modified module to accommodate the unique time-telling mechanism.

• A sapphire caseback to showcase the intricate movement and retrograde mechanics.

Case & Materials: Retro Meets Modern

• Stainless steel case with vintage-inspired lugs for a classic look.

• Sapphire crystal for scratch resistance and clarity.

• Textured dial details to enhance depth and contrast.

Strap Options & Wearability

The watch will likely come with multiple strap options, including:

• Leather straps with vintage stitching for a nostalgic feel.

• Milanese mesh or stainless steel bracelets for a modern edge.

• Quick-release mechanisms for easy customization.

With a case size that balances vintage proportions with modern comfort, the Timeline Retrograde Automatic will be an easy daily-wear companion for those who appreciate both history and innovation.

A Neat Alternative to Traditional Watches

In a market dominated by standard three-hand dials and conventional chronographs, the double-retrograde display stands out as refreshing and innovative.

Accessibility of a High-End Complication

Retrograde complications are usually reserved for luxury Swiss brands like Breguet, Vacheron Constantin, and Blancpain. Xeric makes it attainable without compromising quality, bringing an otherwise exclusive feature to a wider audience.

The Unique Blend of Nostalgia and Modernity

For watch lovers who appreciate mid-century design but don’t want a simple reissue, this watch offers the best of both worlds.

Limited Production – A Collector’s Timepiece

As with many Xeric releases, the Timeline Retrograde Automatic is expected to be produced in limited numbers, making it an attractive option for collectors seeking something truly distinctive.

Final Thoughts: A Must-Have for Watch Enthusiasts?

The Xeric Timeline Retrograde Automatic is more than just a watch—it’s a revival of a lost art. With its double-retrograde complication, retro-futuristic design, and automatic movement, it captures the essence of an era that deserves more recognition.

For those who:

Appreciate innovative time displays

Love mid-century-inspired aesthetics

Want a conversation-starting timepiece

Seek a collector’s piece with real horological significance

…this watch is an absolute must-have.

As vintage trends continue to dominate modern watch design, Xeric has set itself apart by resurrecting something truly unique—the double-retrograde complication in all its retro glory.

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